Monday, January 14, 2013

The Other Burton Beer

Despite the fact that the making of beer has been part of the human experience for at least 6000 years, indeed one of the marks of being civilised in the Epic of Gilgamesh was to be a beer drinker (though I am sure ancient Sumerian 'beer' was a very different beast from the modern stuff), there are places which are renowned for their beer throughout the world, for various reasons. Whether it is Plzeň for its pale lager, which spawned endless imitations, Dublin and the stout porter that would define not just a beer style but an entire country in the minds of many, or Munich for its dunkels, there are some cities where beer is the very stuff of life.

One such city is Burton upon Trent in the English Midlands, an area rich in the history of the Industrial Revolution. At one point the city was home to more than a dozen breweries including such world famous names as Bass, Allsopp and Ind Coope. To put that into context, Burton is about the same size as Charlottesville and in the city proper there are currently 2 breweries. When people think about the Burton brewing industry they think of a style of beer which has come to embody in many way the modern brewing industry, India Pale Ale. However, when in 1948 The Brewer's Art listed the four main types of beer being brewed in Britain they were 'pale ale, mild ale, stout and Burton'.

Burton Ale is one of those beer styles which is almost extinct, I say almost because it would seem from my reading (mostly Martyn Cornell's 'Amber, Gold and Black', various of Martyn's blog posts and magazine articles, and naturally Ron Pattinson's blog) that the style lives on in the Winter Warmer genre of strong English ales. In common with many beers, Burton Ale evolved. Over the years it went from being a super strong nut brown ale shipped to the Baltic region to the Victorian era beer made to a recipe of pure pale malt and Kentish hops to create a beer which was about 6% abv and slightly less hopped than the IPAs being sent from Burton to India. Seemingly, and again most of this information is from Martyn, as the Victorian age gave way to the 20th Century Burton Ale became darker again and then in the decades immediately after the Second World War, the style practically died as the public turned away from dark, sweet beers in favour of pale, bitter ones.

According to Martyn's book though, there are still some beers out there which meet the description of a Burton Ale, whether the paler 19th century version or the darker 20th. Fuller's 1845 is apparently based on a Burton style recipe from the Griffin Brewery, Timothy Taylor Ram Tam is an example of a lower strength dark Burton, and Young's Winter Warmer is, according to Martyn, a 'classic of the Burton Ale type'.

Of those three, I have only had the pleasure of the Fullers 1845, and a mighty great pleasure it is, but I have it in mind to try creating some clone recipesof the various stages in the development of Burton Ale for my homebrewing this year. Brewing old beers is one of my favourite types of history (and history is probably one of my favourite things in general), the type you can drink.


  1. Not sure if you've ever had The Porterhouse's An Brainblásta, but I reckon it counts as a cryptoBurton too.

  2. I have indeed, and it was much better after I took your advice to let it sit in the cellar for a few months.

  3. I have a great "modern" Burton recipe, based on an earlier 20th version. It's sort of like, what a tradition Burton would be like today.

    It uses a Optic, mild, and British dark crystal malt along with invert sugar, and EKGs for aroma and Challenger hops for bittering. I've left out the "traditional" caramel colorant, but you could add an ounce to darken it up slightly. It's a bit strong at 8%, but that's part of the modernization along with the American hops.

  4. Looks like a nice recipe. It's interesting how Burton Ale went from being dark to palish to being dark again all in about 150 years.

  5. It's funny, too, if you look at Burton recipes from the early 20th century, the color really came from the colorant and not the malt. If you can get your hands on it, August Schell's Stag Series #4 is a really nice, American-made, Burton that takes some great inspiration from the past. This is about the time to year it comes out, too.

  6. Here's a more traditional version based on an "in the style of.." Burton from the early 1940s.

    15% of the grist are adjuncts—colorant, sugar and flaked barley. In 1942 the government asked that brewers begin using un-malted grains—mostly oats and flaked barley—to help with the war effort, so I've reflected that in the recipe. It's got a good glug of invert and Jamaican Burnt Sugar as the colorant, too.


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